Summary:
Date: May 22 – June 2, 2023
Country: Portugal
Distance: 556.30 km
Elevation Gain: 4817 m
Our two-week adventure through Central Portugal marked our first long-distance cycling trip since 2019. Portugal was an ideal choice due to its captivating blend of rich history and stunning landscapes. After a flight from Vienna to Lisbon, we assembled our bikes at the airport, cycled to our accommodation, and eagerly set off to explore the magnificent city on foot for two full days.
On the third day, our cycling journey commenced. Our initial destination was Sintra, a historic town located near Lisbon, boasting two remarkable castles. The ride began with enjoyable stretches along pleasant and flat coastal roads. However, as we approached Estoril, steeper climbs challenged us until we finally reached our destination. The following day, we immersed ourselves in the wonders of Sintra on foot before venturing towards the coast in search of a suitable camping spot.
After an approximately 1 kilometer hike-a-bike on sandy tracks, we found a cliffside location to pitch our tent, offering marvelous views.
After a restful night’s sleep, we faced a tough decision. The Eurovelo bike route lay a mere 200 meters ahead, separated from us by a 30-meter-high cliff. While we could have retraced our steps, pushing our bikes back to the main road and taking a steep detour to reach the route, we opted for a more adventurous approach. With all our equipment in tow, we descended the cliff, pushed the bikes through a wide sandy beach, and rejoined the Eurovelo, relishing the awe-inspiring vistas of the Atlantic Coast but also struggling a bit with the steep ascents.
As evening descended, we discovered another cliff to camp on. It was easier to approach from the road which relieved us from any “rock climb-a-bike” endeavors this time.
The subsequent day’s ride was relatively short, covering less than 20 kilometers, partly off-road, to the medieval town of Óbidos. Here, we dedicated most of the day to exploring the city walls, the magnificent castle, and the remarkably preserved historic city center. Our stay in Óbidos proved to be one of the highlights of our trip, as the accommodation provided a tap with a garden hose, allowing us to conveniently clean our bikes.
Departing from Óbidos, we made the decision to temporarily part ways with the Eurovelo route, opting to venture inland and explore some of the region’s historic cities and towns. After conquering exhausting climbs and reveling in breathtaking vistas, we arrived in Fátima, one of the most significant Catholic pilgrimage sites. Fatigued from traversing a small mountain range, we gladly sought solace in an affordable, yet exceedingly comfortable hotel, retiring early after a delightful Portuguese dinner accompanied by fine wine. The following morning, we dedicated time to exploring the sanctuary, which included the spot where three young shepherds claimed to have seen the Virgin Mary in 1917, as well as the basilica housing their graves.
After a few immersive hours in this vast complex, we embarked on a brief but steep ride towards the historic town of Tomar. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Tomar served as the primary stronghold of the Knight Templars in Portugal during the 12th century. The town boasts an imposing, remarkably intact fortress, an equally well-preserved Romanesque church, and a charming old town. To our delight, Tomar’s significance did not draw the same levels of mass tourism as Lisbon or Sintra, granting us a tranquil and authentic experience. We spent an additional day and a half exploring the town.
The following afternoon, we set our sights on Coimbra. However, heavy rain forced us to seek accommodation instead of camping after a few hours of cycling. The nearest option was the small town of Penela, which we reached after yet another set of challenging climbs. As we arrived in the picturesque medieval town center amidst the pouring rain, our intended guest house for the night turned out to be fully booked. Despair began to settle in until we noticed a gentleman waving at us from a nearby pub. With the help of this Brazilian man, fluent in English, we communicated our predicament to the pub owner and fellow patrons enjoying their drinks. Much to our relief, the pub owner generously offered us a room for the night at a mere cost of 30 Euros, until the following morning.
Fortune smiled upon us in Penela, as the town boasted a stunning medieval castle awaiting our exploration before our onward journey to Coimbra. We reached this beautiful historic city in just a few hours, having plenty of time on our hands to explore it (in pouring rain, but it was worth it).
The next morning, as weather conditions gradually improved, we headed back to the coast. As lunchtime approached, we found ourselves at the base of Montemor-o-Velho’s imposing medieval castle, where we indulged in a memorable meal at one of the finest restaurants we had ever encountered. The owner, a former pilot, treated us to excellent Portuguese cold cuts and a delightful bottle of red wine.
Nightfall greeted us on the coast once again, where we found a serene camping. A friendly older chap (looked like a former bouncer) with some English knowledge helped us with the check-in. Setting up our tent, we relished the remaining red wine we had brought along from Montemor.
The following day, we enjoyed some gravel roads leading us towards Aveiro. Just a few kilometers before reaching the city, we settled into a camping again, ready to explore Aveiro on the following day. Once more, we deviated from the Eurovelo route, drawn by the desire to visit the town of Valega and its famous painted baroque church. Our route led us through gravel and dirt paths, meandering through villages with stork nests atop electric poles and chimneys. The beauty of the church justified the detour. After exploring it we stopped by a bakery shop to get our hands on Pão de ló de Ovar, a traditional Portuguese creamy sponge cake recommended by a friend (the cake was rich, gooey and decadent) and then we continued towards the town of Ovar, where we found lodging in a guest house.
On our final day, we traced the picturesque coastline until we finally reached our destination, the enchanting and magical city of Porto.
To be honest, a little more than two weeks in Portugal felt short. There are so many things to explore, learn and enjoy here. Perhaps one of the best features of this country is the mentality of its population. Generally people are helpful and relaxed, but they lack the overly friendly, sometimes even intrusive nature of other mediterranean people. This made social interactions pleasant.
If we come back here perhaps the only thing we would change is the setup of our bikes. Because of carrying full camping gear and clothes for off-the-bike days and diverse weather conditions we opted for panniers and ended up with a heavy total weight. This made cycling on Central Portugal’s hilly terrain demanding for Angela. Also, when checkin in our bikes at the airport when flying home we had to repack them as we exceeded a bit the total weight allowance for sporting equipments. Possibly next time we will bring our bikepacking bags and try to be minimalists. In any case, we can’t wait to be back and explore some other areas of the country such as the Algarve.
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